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Problems With School Horses
Julie, I have a small riding school
outside Chicago, and love teaching the kids, but right now I'm
half-ready to sell every horse, and return to the public schools!
Could you please take a few minutes to think about my situation
and advise? I have five horses, four of which are meant for beginners,
to slightly advanced. I feel like I'm having trouble with all
of them!
POA -- 13 years old, puts her ears back, and even tries to turn
and nip riders foot in stirrup when asked to do anything more
than walk in the arena. Been to vet, had slightly-inflamed hocks
injected, had hormone patch implanted. No other obvious physical
maladies. Mare is, and always has been GREAT on trails, totally
trustworthy, quiet, willing. Hates arena work!
Appy mare -- 10 years old, gentle, likes attention. Walk, trots
okay. But gets way behind the bit and then evades. Also, crow
hops just a little when asked to canter. Also been vet-checked.
No obvious reason. Is it okay to just continue with her? She doesn't
always do it, sometimes canters right off. Very quiet on trail,
but the bit evasion can make her hard to control. Bits tried --
tom-thumb, low-port curb, snaffle -- snaffle good for turning,
of course, but not the best at stopping her on trail. Suggestions?
Gray Gelding -- 9 years old. Does well under intermediate rider.
But just comes to center of arena and stands by instructor every
chance he gets! Or will make circles with beginner, and ignore
(I suspect this is just smart of him! Student needs more training!)
Along these lines, palomino quarter horse, age 11, just STANDS
there. Won't move! He is big, lazy and gentle. But always needs
a slap with the bite of the reins, after clear, correct instruction
to walk-on! Listens better for advanced riders, but ALWAYS lazy.
Well, I know part of what you will say -- How do I turn them into
school horses? Is this common to experience, I would suppose.
But any advice you can help me with is much appreciated! I'm so
frustrated! Is the POA dangerous to keep, or is there something
I can do? The implants have only been in place a week. Ever hear
of this treatment? Thanks, Frustrated Instructor
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Dear Frustrated, The dilemmas you describe are not unusual,
in fact, very typical. Ring sour school horses. Here are a few ideas
that come to mind as I read the descriptions. POA mare: I'd get rid
of her. I have no experience with the implants and it is possible
that by the time you can get her sold, they will be working. However,
I think we far too often blame mare problems on hormones. I have made
an effort to eliminate all mares from my school horse string. It is
my opinion, after more than 20 years of dealing with school horses
that mares sour more quickly, learn more controlling and manipulative
behavior and induce more bad behavior in the other horses. This makes
a lot of sense if you think about it. Mares are the controllers and
protectors of the herd. These manipulative behaviors are inherent
for them. Mares are also more inclined to build a relationship with
a rider (after a period of testing, the mare usually will come around
and learn to like the rider), which bodes well for an individual owner,
but not as a school horse. I have also noticed that geldings that
are otherwise perfect will get territorial and fussy when you bring
a mare into the ring. Since this mare's bad behavior has escalated
to the point of nipping and pinning ears, I'd say get rid of her and
replace her with a gelding. Appy mare: you may want to try a bosal
or side pull to see if that keeps her from going behind the bit. If
she is doing that just to get away from hard hands, you can hardly
blame her. But if she is going behind the bit in order to take control,
that's another story. If she is getting out of control, get rid of
her. As for the crow hopping, if she is otherwise pretty good, then
she is probably just a little cold-backed. My best old beginner horse
is this way. If I know he hasn't been cantered in a while and I am
going to need him to canter, I just hop on and canter him first until
any humpiness subsides. The problem with these horses is that sometimes
they will hump when the rider gets off balance, which a rider is prone
to do when learning to canter. So while this horse may be good for
walk trot, once the student is cantering, you may need to use another
horse. But realize that you are possibly setting yourself up for greater
liability, because if someone falls, and the horse was known to have
bucked before, this would look bad for you. Some of the behaviors
you describe are just tricks the horses have learned that they can
get away with. What you need is to have a regular schooling program
for them. If you have an intermediate or above rider, offer to let
them ride in some lessons free for the purpose of schooling the lesson
horses. Let the horses stand on the rail or walk, but when they try
to come into the ring, put them right to work with trot and canter
circles. As soon as they offer to go to the rail, let them walk or
stop. Soon they will learn the rail is the easy place to be. All school
horses need regular maintenance in their training. A couple of these
horses sound like they may be beyond messing with. You can't really
unlearn behavior, so once a school horse has learned evasive techniques,
and been successful with them, it is tough to reprogram them. I watch
my school horses like a hawk. At any time I think it is turning into
a negative experience for the horse, I make a change. I ruined a very
nice Morgan mare by not recognizing her distress in time. By the time
she was employing evasion techniques (in this case, running off and
ramming the other horses) it was too late to change her, she had learned
too much about different types of students and what techniques worked
best on them (typical mare problem). I sold her and she is an excellent
family horse, she just wasn't cut out to be a school horse. It is
the nature of mares to want to build trust in their herd mates (the
rider) and as a school horse this can't happen and they too often
get betrayed, which leads to ring sourness. With the real lazy horses,
I find I can control them from the center of the ring. If they know
I will come after them to enforce the cue, once they see I am watching,
they'll usually hup-to. But you have to consistently enforce this.
It sounds like you need to do some schooling on these horses with
an advanced student, think about replacing some of them, and watch
their training closely. Another thing I do not do is let people ride
my horses outside of my supervision. I watch my school horses closely
and consider them one of the biggest assets of my business. And if
you think you're frustrated, just imagine how they feel!
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